Thursday, May 10, 2018

Canadian Rockies

I got a good start out of Sandpoint, ID and found myself at the Canadian border about 10AM.  I had needlessly worried about a long line entering and only one semi and one personal vehicle was in front. I soon found myself laughing at ME as I had begun to sound like Dustin Hoffman in Rainman. Driving in Canada posed challenges I had overlooked.  First, the speed is not MPH so there I was every time I saw a speed sign doing my math.   I saw sign at the border that read 60 MPH = 90 KPH and realized "drop the last zero and multiply by 6". So there I was, "8 x 6 is 48; 6 x 6 is 36." After a while I did have to laugh. Also, the fuel is HIGH which I expected but I was short in my calculations for liters to gallons.  Hey, what the heck....once in a lifetime for me!

I noticed right away that high water was on either side of the road.  As I traveled, listening to Canadian radio, I heard that the snow pack is over 200% average pack.  Locals are hoping for a Spring that does not have it all melting faster, of course. The photo below shows a marshy area that was designed to cover runoff near Mount Broadwood.

I found myself in at the Fernie Visitor Centre about midday.  There was a nice trail right there and since the weather report was for rain later in the day and the next, I took off for a short hike.  I am glad I did as I ran across signs indicating the area would soon be subdivisions!  I left Fernie and actually had to back track some to get into the Canadian Rockies.  Soon after passing the park gate I encountered a brown bear rambling up a rocky hill.  I wondered if I was lucky or it would be a sign of many to come.  I arrived into Banff about 6PM and sought out lodging.  I was tired and checked into Best Western Siding 29.  They only had a king suite with a Jacuzzi tub....oh, too bad for me!  That would be a nice treat after a light dinner in the downtown area. 

The next morning, after listening to weather forecast, I decided to do a morning hike at Lake Louise.  I was surprised to see that the lake was nearly all frozen and the trail adjacent very snow packed.  I was able to walk half of that trail only as avalanche areas at the end were not yet cleared for the season.  Nevertheless, I was struck by the beautiful aqua color of the water and ice.  
Lake Louise Hotel has a lot to do to be ready for summer!
Lake Louise almost completely frozen. 

This was a tribute to Canadian Pacific Railway.  In 1889, CPR brought Swiss mountain guides to the Canadian Rockies to give rail traveling guests guided hikes and climbs.


The picture does not really show how vivid the aqua color is.



 After a snack at Lake Louise I took off for Jasper, Alberta...just about 3 hours away!
Below is a glimpse of a glacier seen from the road trip to Jasper.  On that drive I would encounter a grizzly bear near the road and two blacks bears!  As I write this, I am not able to inject bear shots, but I did post on Facebook!
 Ralph is feeling the altitude! If you look closely, you will see the road behind trees.

In another hour after this stop, I encountered the Jasper Icefields.  Go to this site and poke around!(https://www.jasper.travel/shareholders/columbia-icefield/)
It was as though I stopped in a postcard....a cold one!  The center offers a 3 hour trip out and back to an avalanche and to a skywalk!  It was windy and cold and did not sound appealing to me! From the Icefields to Jasper I found the road HARROWING, HEAVING AND HAUNTING!  I was enjoying the ride, but I am always one to walk on the edge a bit.  A good part of that distance had portions covered by fallen rocks and timber.  Crews were on the road, but it certainly was tricky!  




My last glimpse of the Canadian Rockies!
One thing I learned was top off the fuel at every opportunity.  I was lucky twice on this road trip!  What a grand 9 day trip prior to my getting busy at Glacier!  I can't imagine how heavy the traffic will be in Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper this summer!  I am grateful the weather held out, passes were clear and traffic was pretty light.  Now...off to work! 


Tuesday, May 8, 2018

Northbound with Ralph


THIS IS RALPH.


I took off May 1st and arrived in Las Vegas for the first night out. The drive across the desert never ceases to amaze me.  I look out at the mounds of dirt, imagining that a power greater than myself is sitting cross legged and playing with sand. Some might find the desert boring but I find it mesmerizing!   I met up for dinner with friends, my sisters, brother in law, nephew and his children.  It's always nice to get hugs even though I might be blowing through the area.  There are always some I miss.  The next day I drove from Vegas to Salt Lake City for two nights. It rained about 90% of the time and all along I was wishing that rain could reach the fire raging 20 miles from my mountain home in Arizona.  Later I did learn that the fire had been snowed on!  I enjoyed time with Shauna, my "frister"...a term I have developed for a friend of my sister. We had a nice meal out with her mother and brother.  I also took time to follow up with the doctor that did my laminectomy in September 2016.  It was nice to learn that it all looks good in the newest ex-rays. My sister, Megan had made lovely arrangements for our Mom and sister, Laurel which I delivered.



The next piece of the trip took me over Northeast Utah into Wyoming.  I had forgotten how that part of the country is loaded with iron making the land orange.  I stopped to visit and stay with friends in STAR VALLEY, Wyoming.  Kathy and Dave McCann and I met at Jackson Lake Lodge back in the 80's when we all worked for The Grand Teton National Park.  I took advantage of the short trip by stopping to explore a bit in Evanston, WY. I looked at the Uinta County Museum where I learned two things I might be able to remember....
  1. The first woman to drive across country did so in 1909 with three friends that took 59 days.  She drove across ranches and at times forged water lifting the vehicle! Read more here:  https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/alice-ramseys-historic-cross-country-drive-29114570/
  2. The first cross country bicycle trip was done two years prior in 51 days!
Dave flanked by two Star Valley babes!

Again, I took the opportunity to poke around Jackson, WY and the Teton Park to see how things have changed and to have some memories reignite.  Although little was open, the roads were clean and clear.  The mountains were showing themselves completely and I felt very fortunate.

Jenny Lake Visitor Center was still closed.

Ice breaking up on Jackson Lake....brr!


  I can recall working there and being asked when the peaks would be revealed....as though I were a meteorologist!

I left the Jackson area and stopped in on cousin Jessica in Idaho I have not seen in years.  It was nice to see her and I sure hope so much time does not elapse before the next visit!
This is Jessica with her dad, my Uncle Allan.

After leaving her, I was able to drive to Butte, Montana.  On that drive I saw SO many new baby calves on ranches.  Fun fact....Montana has more cows than people! Again, the drive was nice with sunny weather and some clouds.  I was fortunate because just as I checked into a hotel, rain and wind began for the long haul.  As I watched late night news, I heard that Missoula was hit hard and the storm had left many without power.

I awoke to a foggy morning, but I had a plan to visit a museum and by the time I was done the sun had burned off the fog.  As a tribute to my dad (a geophysicist), I looked in on the World Museum of Mining.  I opted not to take the underground tour and wandered the "streets" of the old West town.  It is really pretty extensive. 





Before I left Butte, I stopped at a bakery to buy a pasty. This is what the miners were given for their meals underground.  My goodness, the thing was huge!  It was filled with beef and potatoes.  I opted for some gravy but I am pretty sure the guys got theirs dry in the day.

Beef and potato pasty (PAHstee) with gravy

I pushed on, working my way close to the Canadian border. I followed a river or two along the way taking note of the level.  The rivers are rising, raging and/or rambling!  Many times it looked as though breaches were imminent




 I took a stretch in Wallace, ID.  What an interesting and fun place.  I enjoyed the museum set up at the railroad depot and visiting with a lady in a visitor center.  I asked, "What should I know about Wallace?"  She told me two things.  First, the place produced more silver than any other mining . district in the US.  2) Every downtown building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.   I90  passes through Wallace on an elevated freeway viaduct.  Fun fact I discovered on museum walk:  Dante's Peak was filmed in Wallace.


You might be able to see the freeway viaduct running behind the depot at a second floor level.

As I left Wallace, I passed Coeur d'Alene.  It is very beautiful, but disappointingly overbuilt. 
Beautiful Lake Coeur D'Alene

I drove through and found a sweet AIRBNB for the night in nearby Sandpoint.