Meandering to Mt. Rushmore and Back

    

                            

 

PART 1 -

My late summer trip began with a party...why not? I met my friend and former neighbor in Cottonwood at a winery along with current neighbor, Carson. 

                                                 Happy birthday to Val Loving on the left!  

        

      

The next day we went to Prescott to attend the annual Arizona Cowboy Poets Gathering which was very entertaining...will plan on going next year again! 

My next stop in Las Vegas, NV to see family.  I happened to catch my niece right before she left later in the week for college in Reno. 

                                           

Good timing! I then dashed into Salt Lake City, UT to visit with Returned PC Volunteer, Suzy Wheeler Mang and her lovely daughter, Cassandra.  Her charming house is in a historic downtown area.  

Suzy's front yard is full of beautiful flowers!

Below is a repurposed phone booth I found on a walk in her neighborhood.

From SLC, I drove to an employee reunion for The Grand Teton Park, Jackson Lake Lodge/Colter Bay employees.  

I attended the first one two years ago and missed last year's reunion.  I was quite impressed to see a large crowd in attendance...one from the 60's! It was nice to catch up with Kathy and Dave McCann, who worked with me in the 80's.  

Also, nice to see Wendy Norris, who I met in 2022; current Colter Bay employee, MJ Bonilla, who worked with me at the Grand Canyon and longtime returning Jackson Lake Lodge employee, Karen Kemp, who worked with me at Matson Navigation! I made new friends and missed a few I met two years ago.  It was a well-organized event, and I hope to attend again.  The next day I met my friend, MJ and we put our watercrafts in Jackson Lake.  I had brought my kayak, NED in hopes to see water in many states! 

Next stop would be Anaconda, MT visiting Denise and Bryan who make their home most of the time in Vegas.  It was a pleasure to stay with them and hear about their adventures in Ireland and upcoming plans for late summer. Who imagines running into an acquaintance from their hometown while they are traveling?  Well, it happened in the Phillipsburg, MT candy store! That place made a name for itself! 

                                                           

Living along Georgetown Lake, Denise made sure I got a kayak trip in before I left her area. From Anaconda, I traveled to Missoula, MT to visit with Kathleen, who I knew I would see in a few short weeks in South Dakota. 

 We toured the nearby little town of Alberton, Mt with a well-known vintage bookstore, 

Montana Valley Book Store. Then, we stopped at Ninemile Ranger Station.  This station is home to The Northern Region Pack Train of The Forest Service. This team of nine mules, one horse and two packers provide education, service and packing skills for remote areas. (Think of the damage done recently by Hurricane Helene.  It was a similar team that provided relief quickly.)  While visiting the small museum/gift store, I encountered another coincidence.  

                                                           

                                                   

Turns out she is the sister of my 80's boss, Gary Givens at Jackson Lake Lodge, currently living in AZ!  I will look him up and encourage him to come to a reunion in the future

 My last stop in Montana would be with Cindy, who I met in '22 at Glacier. 

                                          Relaxing in Cindy's yard before she comes home from work. 

                                                      

 We were roommates and hit it off well.  Cindy treated me to a unique stay at her place near Flathead Lake, not by choice.  The power went out and stayed out nearly 24 hours.  She put on candles, and we enjoyed wraps and wine by candlelight! I was happy my visit happened during fair weather!  While visiting Cindy, I dashed to Glacier National Park and took one quick ride on the daunting Going to the Sun Road.  

                                                        

The trip so far was meeting up with friends and family along a route I knew well.  Looking forward, I would enter uncharted territory for me. 

PART 2 -

It's a long trip from Flathead Lake, MT to Mt. Rushmore, South Dakota.  I had booked a stay in Billings, MT at an Airbnb. I arrived at dusk and quickly found my room.  In about 15 minutes, I got a knock on my door. When I opened the door, another client claimed I had his room!  We pulled up our individual emails and saw the same directions after entering the house. Whose bad idea of a joke was this!?! We tried unsuccessfully to contact the Airbnb owner, then reached out to Airbnb directly.  The agent spoke to both of us and quickly resolved the awkward situation.  I had the correct directions and did not need to move.  I rose early in the morning and took off for South Dakota, stopping at Devil's Tower first for a short look around.  My destination would be another few hours' drive, and I arrived about 6PM.  

For the next 10 days I would be camping in my tent at Grizzly Campground only two miles from Mt. Rushmore where I would start work on September 5th. Originally called Grizzly Bear Campground, it was established The Civilian Conservation Corps by CCC camps stationed at Custer State Park between 1935 and 1936.

                                                        

 I had signed up for a volunteer position as Kitchen Help for HistoriCorps. This organization takes pride in preservation of historic places that have deteriorated over the decades. In this case, the Pavillion at Grizzly Campground needed attention to the rock support as well as replacing the roof shingles. I was able to apply a little "elbow grease" removing moss and lichen on the rocks, dismantling some of the fireplace bricks in addition to helping at mealtime.

                                                                

                                                                                Kitchen tent with pavilion in background.

                                                                   

                                                                                Wash station near Kitchen Tent.

  Ashley doesn't fail when it comes to keeping the crew fed!  It was a pleasure to be involved with this great group of people.  Consider donating a week of your time to help HistoriCorps with an upcoming project in your area.

Who has made donuts while camping? 

Every morning started with a stretch session. 

Ashley and I in the kitchen. 

Toast! I was blown away!

In my spare time, I poked around at the job. 

Before lichen and moss removed on left.  After scrubbing on right.

The hearty crew at work. 

                                                                                                                                                     

                                                                                Roof tile is off!

                                                    

                                                                    HistoriCorps trailer with supplies. 

New shingles!

 With a bit of free time between HistoriCorps Grizzly Campground efforts and the start of my Rushmore gig, I poked around a bit.  As it was Labor Day weekend, I was careful and stayed remote.  I investigated The Iron Mountain Road, known as 16A.  This was a clever engineering feat in the 1930's.  It's a unique 17-mile journey allowing travelers the thrill of single lane tunnels that reveal Mt. Rushmore in the distance.  One is held to 35 miles per hour with 314 curves and 3 pigtail bridges.  I couldn't wait to share with my upcoming visitors!

I drove South to Jewel Cave National Park and Wind Cave National Park that weekend.  I knew Wind Cave's elevator was being repaired which meant crowds would be slim.  

This was all to be seen at Wind Cave.  There was a nice, cool breeze coming from the entrance.

All of the orange represents the massive Jewel Cave NP system discovered to date.  

There are suspicions that the cave system extends much more.  

On September 5th, I arrived for orientation along with my AZ friend, Lynnette.  We were joined by new friend, Cheyenne from St. Louis.  Lynnette and I would become roommates and, even though we might have liked having a room to ourselves, we got along fine.

Mt. Rushmore Employee Dorm

THIS is where I picked up a rodent in my car.  

The critter would taunt me throughout the rest of the trip!

Space was roomy.

We made a "Library Area" of the third bed!

 Lynnette would get up and venture onto nearby trails early, prior to her 2PM assignment in Parking.  I looked forward to her reports so I could plan my own escapade on a day off.  Rarely did I have enough energy before or after my shift to explore. I did get NED, my kayak on nearby Horsethief Lake once after a shift. Kathy from Missoula had arrived a few days prior to Lynnette and me.  We all have different lengths of contract and had just a few outings together.  

Presenting Mt. Rushmore!

                                                

The monument is lit every night and is quite stunning!

A lovely float on Horsethief Lake after work.

Mt. Rushmore is a mere two miles from historic Keystone.  There is a nice interpretive walking path in Old Keystone.  When was the last time you saw a gas pump on the porch of a general store? 

We took a day trip to Hill City where we toured the CCC Museum and an interesting dinosaur museum.

Unlike the parks I have worked in previously, where I took weeks to get to know, Mt. Rushmore Monument can be seen in a day.  The NPS provides a nice documentary that explains how the monument was built.  Any visitor who leaves without taking in the short presentation is cheating themselves.  My opinion of the place was completely transformed after viewing the film.  I went from thinking, "How audacious this place is" to "What remarkable piece of art!" Once I reframed how I thought about the place, I was anxious to discuss it with guests. The designer, Gutzon Borglum selected the four presidents based on important events in history. Each selection is described at the National Park Site for Mt. Rushmore. It's interesting to see the Sculptor's Studio and take the walk along the 1/2-mile Presidential Trail for different perspectives of the faces. 

                                                            

                                    As I arrived after 4PM, I could only get this photo of George at the studio.  

                                                Every inch is multiplied by 12" on the hill.

                                                            

                                                        Along the Presidental Trail with 400+ stairs.

                                                            

Lynnette, Cheyenne and I along Needles Highway.

When the Presidental Candidate debate was going to be televised I sought out a debate party!  As it turned out, the location was at former State Senator Tom Katus's home on a hill overlooking Rapid City.  It was great to sit and laugh and boo!  

                                                            

                                                            Former Senator Tom Katus welcomes attendees.

                    

                        I met two local candidates running for state office in SD. Good food served as well!

Custer State Park is very close and provides a variety of hiking trails and lakes as well as interesting history.  It offers a yearly round up of bison where visitors from around the world come and experience the highly energized event.  About two weeks after the roundup, the crew run each and every animal through a regiment of vaccination, branding new Red Dogs, checking general health and determining which will go to market.  This procedure maintains a healthy balance of available forage with the animals.

                                                

Cheyenne and I ventured to HOT and WINDY Badlands, stopping at "MUST SEE" Wall Drug.  I found it all underwhelming.  

                                                

                        

These are photos of a small place known as The Homestead which is between Wall and Badlands NP.

Sod blocks were used by settlers to form the walls.

Later in the month I drove through the southern side of Badlands on the way to Wounded Knee.  That visit was very touching as I stopped at the White River Visitor Center where I learned of the harm our military inflicted upon native land during WWII. 

                            Wounded Knee Cemetery.  300 natives were buried in a huge open trench here. 

Kathy and I did a day trip to Deadwood, Lead and Spearfish before it would be time for her to return home.  

Delighted to see these mountain goats outside of Spearfish! 

Deadwood Cemetery is the final resting place for Calamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickok.

Sanford Lab Homestake Visitor Center, Lead, SD has a promising and intriguing future.  Secrets of the universe are being uncovered here!

This is The Mammoth Site near Hot Springs, SD.  It's claimed to have the world' largest mammoth research facility. Over 60 mammoths have been unearthed and work here continues. 

Today's elephant is the smallest figure in this display. 

One can't go to The Black Hills without taking in Crazy Horse Monument. Korczak Ziolkowski, a Bostonian born to Polish immigrants had won a first prize sculpting award at the 1939 New York World's Fair.  Lakota Chiefs caught the news of this talented sculptor and Lakota elder Henry Standing Bear wrote to Ziolkowski asking that he construct a monument honoring Crazy Horse. The initial blast to begin the sculpture was done June 3, 1948.  He, his wife and their 10 children worked on the project and generations of the family continue the legacy.  Future plans for the property include a university campus and cultural complex to celebrate all Native Americans of North America.  Lynnette and I were privileged to see a presentation and Jingle Dance outside in beautiful weather. 

                                                    

Lynnette and I hiked the Stratobowl Rim Trail (thanks for the heads up, Kathy!) What a fascinating place in our history that I had never heard of!  This was a lift off site for record-breaking balloon flights in 1934 and 1935.  The National Geographic Society and the Army Air Corps worked together LONG before NASA to research atmosphere.  Their studies were done at 72,395 feet!  Balloonists from all over convene in September every year to commemorate the event. (www.stratobowl.com)

After three short weeks, it was time for Kathy to return to her Missoula home.  A week later would be Lynnette's turn to leave.  It was fun to have friends on this gig!

On a very hot day off I opted for a visit to the highly acclaimed Journey Museum.  It did not disappoint!  The museum covers 3 billion years of history with stories and cultural artifacts. It had a small area dedicated to the above mentioned Stratobowl.

                                            Human hair wreath from the 1800's. 

So many varieties of barbed wire!

I learned at the Journey Museum about Chapel in the Hills and Canyon Lake Park.  Late in the afternoon, I visited those areas.  Canyon Lake was the site of devastating floods in 1972.  

Chapel in the Hills is a 1960's replica of Norwegian Lutheran buildings and lifestyle of immigrants.

 (info@chapel-in-the-hills.org)

South Dakota has an amazing number of statues!  Rapid City proudly boasts that ALL of the US Presidents reside in the downtown area.  

Custer has a good number of bison statues.  

On my last bit of time off, I took to hiking tower trails.  Lynnette had warned me that trail markings were not always visible.  Being solo as I hiked, I wanted to take to a clear path!  

Above is the view from Seth Bullock Lookout Tower, overlooking Pactola Lake. The tower itself is shown below with first hint of Fall colors. 

Mount Roosevelt/The Friendship Tower in below. Teddy Roosevelt and Seth Bullock were good friends and named towers for each other. 

View from Mount Roosevelt below. 

My time in The Black Hills was coming to an end.  However, an adventurous road trip was just around the corner!  My Peace Corps friend, Michelle flew from Kodiak Island to Rapid City just a few days before I needed to pack up and leave the dorm.  

                                The first thing Michelle asked was, "Do you still have the rodent?" Yep.

Michelle is up on top of the pen to watch a few bison with Custer State Park being processed with vaccinations. After a dusty and hot time at the park, we traveled to Hot Springs and arrived just in time to enjoy three quiet hours in six different natural pools ranging in temperatures (88 to 102 degrees Fahrenheit). 

                                                        

While I worked my last shift at Mt. Rushmore Gift Store, Michelle took my Jeep and snooped around a nearby hiking trail.  She helped me pack up and we were on our way South for our version of "Will and Harper" or "Drive-Away Dolls". I called it "The Bickering Sista Trip". 

We stopped one night in Wheatridge, CO catching up with fellow Returned Peace Corps Vols for dinner at Yak and Yeti Restaurant and Brewpub.  Food there is delicious, and the venue is a charming old house.

Stayed with Kaylee and Kevin in Wheatridge. They tried to help me set a trap/release gadget in the car for the critter.  Never caught it!

The next morning, we set off for Florissant, Co where we would stay two nights with my sister, Mimi.

 Prior to our meetup with Mimi, we stopped at nearby Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument.  This area is known for some of the richest and most diverse fossil deposits in the world!  I had no idea.  Additionally, I found it fascinating that Petrified redwood stumps up to 14 feet wide are also in the area! We also had time the next day to take in the Colorado Wolf and Wildlife Center.  

                                                

With last stretch back to Payson, AZ it was hard not to just head straight home.  However, as a comfortable road trip, we opted to stay in Durango, CO, taking in the beautiful fall leaves along state highways.  

                                                

Since Michelle had never seen the Four Corners, we took the extended trip out of Durango.  I had last been there about 45 years ago and yes; it has changed a lot! 

We arrived back at my home about dusk and stopped briefly to reset hot water and ensure the house would be warm then off to my favorite restaurant in Payson....La Sierra!

Somewhere along the way, Mr. Mouse or whatever must have decided a road trip was not for him!  I have not seen any sign of a rodent since I have been home two weeks.

I left these little mats for folks I visited.  

They work well for 2 wet feet coming from a shower or a table mat. 

Well, that is a wrap for my latest adventure!  I do hope the end of 2024 finds my readers in a good place.  Certainly, have a peaceful and loving holiday.....it's up to us all to seek out our commonalities.